Patek Philippe unveiled a new World Time watch Ref. 5230. Based on the latest listing, some time zones have been assigned different city names.
The new Ref. 5230 is available in either a white (Ref. 5230G in 18K white gold) or rose gold (Ref. 5230R in 18K rose gold). Using the Calatrava case, it has a diameter of 38.5 mm and a height of 10.23 and features winglet-style lugs and a narrow, smoothly polished bezel. The hour hand is pierced and the minute hand features a Greek-blade profile. Like the applied baton hour markers, they are crafted from white or rose gold to match the case. Meanwhile, the center of the dial features a basket weave pattern.
Patek Philippe World Time watch works by a unique reference mechanism. When traveling into a different time zone, the pusher in the case at 10 o’clock is pressed as often as needed to align the respective city name with the red arrow at 12 o’clock. Each time the pusher is pressed, the hour hand will advance by one hour while the city disk and the 24-hour ring will move by one increment in the counterclockwise direction. During this process, the time-zone mechanism is uncoupled from the movement so that the accurate progression of the minute hand and the amplitude of the balance remain unaffected.
Therefore, instead of needing to do simple arithmetic in your mind if you have a common world time watch and wanted to know the current time in another time zone, Patek Philippe World Time eliminates that need. The local time is displayed for the time zone whose assigned city name is just above the small red arrow at 12 o’clock. In the other 23 zones, the times are directly readable on the 24-hour ring that rotates counterclockwise within the city disk.
The caliber for the new Ref. 5230 is the 240 HU, a 3.88 mm thick self-winding mechanical movement. This highly compact movement can still generate ample winding power because it is crafted from solid 22K gold to increase its mass and torque. It has a power reserve of at least 48 hours, and a reported accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds per day. Highly decorated as required by the Patek Philippe Seal standard, this movement uses 35 ruby jewels. The movement can be clearly seen via the large display case-back.
The Ref. 5230 is a handsome world timer. Despite the ‘busy’ dial with all the cities printed in a large band around the dial which forces the hands to only ‘operate’ in a smaller radius, I don’t get the overwhelming feeling of visual overload. The hands are thick enough with the correct background texture and colour to make it very readable. Moreover, the world time mechanism on this clock makes time referencing for other time zones easy with the use of the 24-hour ring that rotates counterclockwise within the city disk.